The 31st episode of our Aqua Medic Armatus is about a little tip. Namely, replacing the filter socks with something else. The innovation is also a little quieter.
Finally a video that is not about a product, but only about our animals. Fish, corals by day and almost by night, where the animals usually shine much more due to their fluorescence. Have fun with it.
Coral Banks or Coral Racks are a great invention. They are made of ceramic and have one or more magnets. They are a great way to extend the stone structure over the discs. We have made a small series about this, in which we also talk about other things that are currently on the agenda.
After 6 months of operation, we take a closer look at the aquarium and the LEDs with their mounting brackets. After all, the mounting brackets come into almost direct contact with water. So rust is already an issue here, but that was to be expected. Aquaristik Singer has an idea for those who do not want to hang their LEDs.
You can hardly believe it. After a few weeks now and the increasingly intensive emergence and growth of glass lice, I treated the large glass lice one last time with Aiptacap from Aquamedic. Well, what didn't work the first time seems to work now. The glass lice are gone, but the problem with the flatworms is getting worse.
Unfortunately, the first action to destroy the glass lice did not really lead to success. Here we show you how to continue. This time the subject is Wurdemanni shrimps and a small nudibranch called Berghia, which likes glass lice.
After almost exactly 3 months of operation, a phenomenon has occurred in our Aquamedic Armatus tank: the water level in the main tank rises inexplicably every day. Mostly this happens at night. This does not seem to be an Aqua Medic specific problem, as I have found and watched several opinions and videos on other systems such as RedSea or Eheim. But see for yourself how we are tackling this now with the help of Aqua Medic.
Now you can see how the cyanobacteria are progressing. The first fish have now moved in, 1 Armatus coral guard, Neocirrhites armatus, 4 flag perch, Pseudanthias randalli and 2 arrow gobies, Nemateleotris decora followed a few days later by 2 Gramma loreto. And we are building a DIY aquarium net cover.
Of course, we are not immune to plagues. Immediately after the diatoms that are typical during the run-in, the whole thing quickly turned a rich red - we had cyanobacteria! First the bottom, a short time later the stones too. And it was quite an agile form, according to an examination by Mrutzek Meeresaquaristik. Here we show you the measures we took.
To avoid having to manually dose various liquids every day, it is advisable to automate these processes. In contrast to the past, the market today is full of different models. Many can be expanded from 4 to 8 channels by means of additional modules, or you can even purchase 6-channel systems. Fortunately, Detaylor provided us with a specially made holder for the Reefdoser Evo 4, which we used to fit the system into the small cabinet.
After a short time after starting the saltwater aquarium, you have to think about how to keep the values up to date. The lime reactor and the balling method are particularly well known here. Lime water was common in the past, but hardly anyone uses it any more.
Opinions will certainly not always be unanimous on the subject of regular water changes. Some aquarists "run" their system entirely without water changes, others work with a 10% water change every week, or even 20% every 2-3 weeks. We belong to the 10% change group.
Since we can unfortunately only work with dead rock, or rather have to, as there has been no import from Indonesia since May, it is time to bring life into the new aquarium. But you wouldn't do anything different with living rock. This then happened with the first corals. To stand up to the upcoming diatoms, the first hermits and snails were introduced, the so-called cleaning crew. And then, of course, the diatoms struck!
The temperature in the seawater aquarium is also an important factor and must be kept an eye on regularly. Our corals tolerate a range in the optimimun of 24 - 27 degrees. If it gets too warm or cold, corals can die. Especially in summer during the hot season you have to think about lowering the temperature. More information in the article.
In natural seawater, the pH is about 8.2 and is not subject to strong fluctuations. In the aquarium, a value between 8.0 and 8.4 should therefore be aimed for. So it makes sense to keep an eye on the pH value regularly, especially because it is now possible to do this cheaply. The PH monitor from Aqua Medic comes in at less than 100 euros. Read more in the article.
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