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How a marine aquarium is created Part 14: The temperature (heating and cooling)

Arctic Breeze 4 fach

The temperature in the seawater aquarium is also an important factor and must be kept an eye on regularly. Our corals tolerate a range in the optimimun of 24 - 27 degrees. If it gets too warm or cold, corals can die. Especially in summer during the hot season you have to think about lowering the temperature. More information in the article.

The temperature in the marine aquarium is also a very important parameter.

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If the temperatures are too warm or too cool, this will lead to the death of corals and other organisms in the long run. Shrimps are particularly sensitive. In nature, the temperature in the sea fluctuates by up to about 3 °C during the course of the day.

Therefore, the temperature should be kept at a constant level.

Therefore, the temperature in a marine aquarium should always be about 24-25 degrees. Fluctuation is normal here too, cooler at night, then warmer when the light is on.

Heating:

There is not too much to do here. The market has a variety of control heaters in different wattages. It seems important to me to install a heater that is adapted to the number of litres. The market offers various aids and specifications.

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Cooling:

Now it gets more interesting. Here, there are many ways and solutions, which we try to list.

This is the topic of the discussion.

This is an issue that concerns us aquarists every summer, especially when it gets warm for many days in a row and temperatures are also high at night. Then the water hardly cools down any more.

The following things can be considered:

* Darken the room with roller shutters underground, close the windows during the day and then ventilate well at night at the latest.

* Doing without cover windows also makes a difference

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* on particularly hot days, you can also reduce the light (lighting time or intensity)

* Fan, or aquarium fan, probably the most commonly used strategy. However, be aware of the increased evaporation and keep enough water available (level control). You should also be careful that it does not get too cool and that a heating rod even works against it. A temperature control (measuring the water temperature and controlling the heater and cooler) would be ideal. A stand fan is of course much more powerful than an aquarium fan.

* A cooling unit. Here, water is usually fed into the cooling unit via a hose and the water is thus cooled. The disadvantage here is clearly the high price, the space requirement and sometimes the noise level.

* In small pools you can also keep up with ice cubes.

* What everything has something of, animal and human, would be a room air conditioner.

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By the way, small tanks are much easier to cool down than large ones. Our heater, for example, is usually set to 24.5 degrees, which could be optimised downwards a little during the hot times so that there is more of a buffer at night.

At night, the water is cooled by the heater.

Our solution is therefore as follows.

We have the Aqua Medic T Twin of the latest generation (with touch control and the setting of 0.1 steps) This device has two connections, one for the heating rod, the second for a cooling unit. Now you can simply set that, for example, the heater starts heating at 24.5 and stops again at 25, and upwards you can programme the device so that the cooler starts at 25.5. Everything is really easy to set. The unit makes a good impression and also looks good.

T Twin Controller Heizen und Kühlen

Arctic Breeze 4 fach

Arctic Breeze 4 fach

T Twin im Filterabteil

We have a 4-fold fan battery from Aqua Medic for this, which seems too loud to me in the long run. Of course, the market also has other, but then usually more expensive, fan batteries, e.g. from GHL, Grotech or Detaylor, just to name a few companies. Ultimately, these are usually PC fans with housings. Note that some companies specify the noise level and air performance, which makes it more comparable. So don't look at the quantity of fans, but at the total qbm of air.


Here now is the videowith the connection to the T Twin Controller:




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robertbaur

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